This area will feature the FASTEST FIVE SATURN CARS in their respective categories. Think your car is fast enough to be featured in the Fastest V? Send your information and mods to poc301 to have your car listed here.

Street Class
1) UnderdogSDA 13.3 (Nitrous)
2) S.Bretz 13.35 (Turbo)
3) Poc301 13.50 (Nitrous)
4) BoostedSL2 13.56 (Turbo)
5) Yardbird 13.59 (Nitrous)

Unlimited Class
1) Nefarious 12.26 (Nitrous)
2) LowSC2 12.4 (Nitrous)
3) 92saturnSS 13.33 (Nitrous)

DOHC
1) UnderdogSDA 14.21
2) Green Monstah 14.5
3) DonBaker 14.71
4) Applebit 14.8
5)SaturnMotorsportsOfCary14.84

SOHC
1) ProjectPhase1 16.61
2) Sh1FT 16.90
3) Wraith 16.98
4) jhsl1 17.2
5) SL_Sled 17.96

Ion
1) JGreen 15.48
2) schzzo97sc2 15.60
3) Chris 15.79
4) rascon11 16.06
5) IonJon 16.27

Updated 1/05

For the most recent list of the fastest five cars click here.
 

 

Turbocharging 101 - Page 2

by: qksl2

 

Something not absolutely proven with Saturns, but commonly used among turbo Honda owners is a simple AFC or AFR with larger injectors. An AFC is a fuel computer by Apex, as the AFR is the same by HKS. Both modify the map signal to the computer so that you can adjust the injector pulse width at certain RPM points. I will be experimenting with this in the future, and will determine how well it works. This is a step up from using a fuel pressure regulator, as it is more precise.
The most successful way of adding fuel to turbo saturns thus far has been the SDS EIC. That is: The Simple Digital Systems extra injector controller. www.sdsefi.com. I have used it, Chris used it, Alex, Tom, Paul, and Eric have all used it. While highly scrutinized by many never-had-a-turbo people, it has simply been reliable. Again, it is a somewhat crude, but works. A huge benefit of this system is that it is completely separate from your stock system. Think of it this way: Your entire stock fuel system goes on doing its job as it normally does: It idles just the same, runs just the same while not under boost and adjusts the a/f ratio for maximum economy when cruising. The SDS is a system that runs another fuel feed line to two extra injectors in your intake piping. (You can also get four extra injectors, one in each intake manifold runner). You weld two injector bosses into your intake piping before the throttle body, much like a wet nitrous system. The two extra injectors are controlled by the SDS, which is boost and rpm referenced. This means that it sees both boost and RPM, and adds fuel accordingly. You adjust it by two knobs: One to tell it when to come on (how much boost before it starts squirting), and the other is how much to inject. So when your engine goes into boost, it starts to add fuel. It is very easy to get it tuned on the street, and then can be fine tuned on the dyno. It is not too precise because you cannot adjust it at many RPM points. However, benefits are that there is no extra strain on your stock fuel system, and the car drives just like normal when you are not in boost.

The last option is a full stand alone fuel system. I personally like the Haltec system. This is a whole different ball game, and I do not recommend this for anyone who does not want to really spend some time getting everything dialed in right. You'll definitely want to have a shop help you with this!
The turbosaturns.net guys are working on what's call the Megasquirt, which is a DIY fuel management system. It is not full stand alone in that it does not control timing. However, it has complete control over the fuel system. It will allow us to run very large injectors, and tune completely for boost. Chris and Mike are also in on this, and big thanks to Canadian Ben for pioneering the subject. More on this as time goes on.

6. Intercooler.

I very highly recommend an intercooler with your turbo setup. It will cool off the intake charge greatly. Cooler intake charge means more power and more detonation resistance. This is pivotal with an engine not designed for boost. It allows for a buffer zone against detonation, and more consistency while running repeatedly. A great intercooler is the Starion intercooler. These can be found on ebay commonly for not much money. They utilize the same core as the Lancer Evolution does, so it flows very well and is efficient. Other options are the ginormous Twistec intercooler, or a custom spearco.
Mounting a front mount is not too difficult on most saturns. It will require trimming of some of the plastic baffling, though.

7. Intercooler piping.

The best piping to use is 2" "hot" and 2.25 inch "cold". The reason for this is the velocity and air density change as it goes through the intercooler. Piping can be sourced from JC Whitney, www.jcwhitney.com. Silicon connectors and clamps can be sourced from www.roadraceengineering.com or www.turbopiping.com. For clams, the screw type works fine, though the T-bolt camps are very nice!

8. A blow off valve is necessary.

It relieves pressure in the intake piping created by the spinning turbo between shifts, where the throttle plate closes. It is to prevent damage to the turbo from spinning backwards, known as compressor surge. I like the Turbo XS units, though HKS and Blitz also make very nice ones. These can be commonly found on Ebay or other parts places. The vacuum line reference should go to the intake manifold for an accurate reading.

9. Boost controller.

An electronic boost controller is very nice. It allows you to run minimal boost for around town driving, and the bump it up for the occasional street encounter or drag race. However, a manual controller will work. Be careful, though, as manual boost controllers are more prone to boost spiking. As far as which controller, it is mostly preference. I really like my GReddy PRofec A, though the PRofec B is cheaper and simpler, but works well. The ACV-R is quite complex, and has some nice features, but costs quite a bit more.

10. Gauges.

Minimum would be boost and a/f gauges. Any boost gauge will work. For an a/f gauge, I like the Halmeter in combination with an o2 sensor from an 89 Escort. It has 3 wires instead of one, so its heated. The Halmeter is a 30led a/f gauge that is available from www.racetep.com. The best solution would be a wideband, but so long as you tune your car on the dyno, the Halmeter is good enough to simply monitor that everything is ok.

11. Oil feed line.

It should be a -4 an braided stainless line. Earl's lines are available through Summit Racing. The return line should be a minimum of -8 an, or even -10 an. It should have no kinks, and be downhill all the way. You'll have to have a turbo return line fitting welded into your oil pan. Make sure it is above the level of the oil!


The turbosaturns.net forum has become one of the best resources for Saturn performance on the net. Our members are constantly pushing their cars to new performance levels. So, log in, share your ideas, and help push your car’s performance to the next level.

Archived Articles

HERE

 


August 2005 TSN will be holding its first ever meet in Chardon, Ohio. Some of the fastest Saturns in the country will be attending. Activities will include drag racing, dyno, tech session, and BBQ. Look for the latest information in the forums.

 

Different Racing

Jeff and his team Different Racing have big plans on breaking into some really low quarter mile times this year. Last year he posted a 12.40 on a pretty healthy nitrous shot. This year he has a new turbo setup and some serious determination. Visit his website for the latest news and information. I expect we'll be seeing some low 12's from him by the end of the year.