Version 2.0 Wideband Construction
I bought the DIY wideband kit from Techedge hoping for a good way
to tune my car on boost. I opted for the DIY LDO1 display, DIY WB
controller, and bought a pre-built cable. It came several weeks
later neatly packaged in zip lock bags. All of the components are
pre-sorted and labeled. It appears to be a far simpler construction
than the Megasquirt, but don't be fooled. The guys at techedge have
managed to fit twice as many components in far less space than the
Megasquirt. Make sure you're good at soldering components that are
close to each other without creating solder bridges. (Solder bridges
occur when the solder flows from the component to a neighboring
component or trace on the board.) This may take some practice, but
it will save your controller in the long run. As a word of caution,
the techedge board seems more sensitive to heat than the megasquirt.
Things to get before you start:
These may be debatable as people have their own preferences. This
is what worked best for me.
15-30 watt soldering iron- I bought a 15-watt soldering
iron from radio shack. This iron just barely has enough power to
get the job done. I would recommend a higher power iron with a regulated
heating supply. The more watts it has, the better it can maintain
its heat. If I started soldering too fast my iron would cool off
and slow me down. Make sure your iron has a stand or you'll be stuck
trying to find places to set your iron that won't catch on fire.
.32 diameter silver bearing solder- .25 oz of it is more
than enough to get the job done. The smaller diameter will allow
you to get in those small spaces on the board.
Small wire cutter- You'll need this to cut the leads off
the components after you've soldered them. I used a pair of fingernail
clippers. The leads are rather soft metal. The clippers worked awesome,
and after clipping all that metal they're still sharp enough to
cut my nails.
Wet rag- Save yourself the money and don't bother with the
cleaner/tinner at radioshack. All it did was get crap all over my
iron. The wet rag will pull the excess solder right off the iron.
Desoldering Band- This will be a lifesaver for those who
don't have a lot of soldering experience. If you accidentally make
any solder bridges you can remove it with this.
Multimeter- You'll need this to test the unit when you're
Word of Caution- if you have never soldered before, buy
a PC board at radio shack and some extra resistors and practice
soldering before you start. Some instructions on how to solder are
Now to get started, get out your PC board that came with the kit
and open up the section of the baggie with the resistors. It is
best to sort the resistors beforehand. They are all labeled with
their resistance so those who can't read the bands can still get
the thing together. You'll want to start with all of the resistors
that have gold bands on one end. Once you have sorted them, plug
in your iron. This way it will be hot by the time you are ready
Go to http://www.wbo2.com/2a0/location.htm
this page shows the location of every component on the board. Also
go to http://www.wbo2.com/2a0/const.htm
this page has detailed instructions for the construction of the
board. Below is an example of how you should use the location guide.
The following are the tan/ brown resistors with the gold bands.
The first column is the quantity of the resistors.
R107, R108, R109
R110, R113, R203, R216, R225, R412
R301, R302, R405, R407
R111, R112, R402, R404, R413, R414,
R105, R406, R422
R416, R417, R418, R419, R420
10R 1W 5%
15k 1W 5%
Starting at the beginning, find the locations on the board R110,
R113, R203, R216, R225, R412 and bend the leads on the resistor
as close to the resistor as possible. The press the resistor into
each slot as the number corresponds. You may need to bend the leads
so that the resistors don't fall out when you turn the board upside
down. Continue this down the table. Once you have a group of 10
or so resistors in place, you can solder them in. Be sure to add
a little solder to your iron before you start. Turn the board over
and set it down on your workstation. Solder by touching the tip
of the iron to both the lead and the metal ring on the board. Then
touch the solder to the joint where the iron touches the lead and
the ring. The solder will jump into the hole when you pull back
the iron. This may take practice for beginners. NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL
R2 YET. This resistor must be installed standing straight up and
down. You must install the Ethernet connector first. R401 is the
bicycle symbol on the bottom left-hand corner.
Once you have soldered all of the resistors above, go on to the
1% resistors and repeat. The 1% resistors will be all that's left;
they are usually blue/green and have a black or brown strip on one
It's easiest to start with the lowest lying components on the board,
so you'll want to install in the following order, Resistors, capacitors,
diodes, crystals, IC sockets, and then everything else. You may
want to install the test pins before the IC sockets. Soldering the
IC sockets will be far easier if you have rubber clamps to hold
them on the board. Construction of the unit will be time consuming.
Once you have completed it, go on to the display.
Once all is complete, tap the positive wire into your 12+ ignition
wire. There is a ground on the driver's side of the radio console.
Simply remove the nut and screw the ground wire in. Run the NB output
to your pcm if you would like the pcm to get a more accurate O2
reading while running.
If you ordered the cheaper VW sensor you will have to make a bung
and thread it into your exhaust manifold. NA cars will need to mount
the sensor further down the exhaust stream than the factory location
as the sensor will overheat. Turbo cars can just use their regular
To make sure your unit is fully functional; follow the directions
on the website. The following has been taken directly from the site.
"Test Point and Connector Voltages
Test condition with 6066 sensor J1 - installed, J2 in the 2-3 position,
J3 in the 1-2 position. Negative (Black) lead of DVM on GND (left)
end of D2. Sensor in free-air. Battery voltage of 12.0 Volts. The
voltages (in red) are for when butane is briefly squirted into the
end of the sensor and these voltages rapidly change back as the
butane dissipates from around the sensor element. The "butane
voltages" are just a rough check that the unit is working.
Note that these voltages were obtained from a production unit and
the calibration set for a 6066 sensor. 7057 sensor values should
be similar. The readings may also depend on the type of meter you
Test Points (grouped as on PCB)
Ip Tp1 2.74 (1.30)
Vpb Tp2 3.30 (0.67)
NBsim Tp6 0.02 (0.90)
SVout Tp5 4.05 (1.05)
WBLin Tp3 5.03 (0.01)
WBVout Tp4 3.53 (0.05)
Circular connector - Y3
Vs Y3-1 2.48 (2.48)
Vs/Ip Y3-2 2.01
Ip Y3-3 2.75 (1.45)
IpCal Y3-4 2.91 (1.05)
VGND Y3-5 2.01 (as for Y3-2)
H- Y3-6 5.0 (blow into sensor to cool heater-may go down to 1.0
H+ Y3-7 12.0 (battery voltage)
RJ45 I/O Connector - Y1
SVout Y1-1 4.05 (as for SVout)
Rx Y1-2 0 (-9.0 Volts if PC connected)
Tx Y1-3 -9.0
WBlin Y1-4 5.03 (as for WBlin)
GND Y1-5 0 (GND)
NBSim Y1-6 0.02 (as for NBSim)
WBVout Y1-7 3.53 (as for WBVout)
VBatt Y1-8 12.0 (as for Battery, 0.9 less if LD01 connected)
Once you've verified that everything is working correctly, go try
forum has become one of the best resources for Saturn performance
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your car’s performance to the next level.
August 2005 TSN will be holding its first ever meet
in Chardon, Ohio. Some of the fastest Saturns in the country will
be attending. Activities will include drag racing, dyno, tech session,
and BBQ. Look for the latest information in the forums.
Jeff and his team Different Racing have big plans
on breaking into some really low quarter mile times this year. Last
year he posted a 12.40 on a pretty healthy nitrous shot. This year
he has a new turbo setup and some serious determination. Visit his
website for the latest news and information. I expect we'll be seeing
some low 12's from him by the end of the year.